Val Farina Tower
potere (Power games)
Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati
of people in Lecco are climbers or
trekkers, but there are still
some unknown places to discover, or revist in moder view: the Farina
is one of them!... How many people in Lecco should have never listen
name? The Val Farina tower is an extremely hiding place; it is clearly
visible in its beuty only from the "Forcellino" view-point at Piani
(m 1300), seventeen chilometers from Lecco. Only two other teams
on its limestone in the past (1980): Daniele Chiappa, Carlo Duchini,
Stefani and Annibale Borghettti climbed a route on the left-end of this
face, but they stopped 30 m before the top to not use bolts; while Roby
Chiappa, Luca Borghetti and Mario Valsecchi climbed on the right-end of
the face, reaching the top through a chimey. Our 5th pitch is
common with the left one of these two routes, we asked
"a permission" to Daniele Chiappa before rebolting it; he, together
his brother Roby, expressed us his approval for our revist.
In our opinion, "Giochi di potere" (Power games) is one more time the
demostration that modern routes are not a break-point with the past but
its logicall evolution, and they also permit to re-evaluate frogotten
routes and their climbing history.
reach it: from the
Lecco-Ballabio road, at the locality Via
Quarto, take the path n°52 to the Mount San Martino. Overpass the
and the refuge at the top of it and go on in direction of the Val Verde
and Piani Resinelli. After an equipped downhill chain you are at the
of a rocky valley (Val Rovina) that leads to the base of the pillar;
the squeeze valley for 15 minutes then go right to the pillar
a 20 m fixed rope leads to the beginning of the route.
The route: is 200 m long, difficulties
are F6a/6b (max F6b+)
It is bolt-equipped with 34 10mm fixes plus 16 for
with chain to rapell), to repeat it 6 "quicks" and
a 60 m rope (for
rapells) are sufficient.
Descent: 7 30m rapells (+ 2
avoidable on the rock-band).
Notes: the wall is south-west
faced, its top receives
the sun late in the morning, while the first two pitches only in the
The site is quite fresh in spring and autumn and too hot in the summer
(altitude is about 1200 m). The rock is a grey and black limestone, not
perfect in some sections; most lose rocks and grass have been removed
is better to be careful during the repeats.
e immagini: Copyright © Paolo Vitali –