QUOTE
300m / ORIENTED W / EQUIPPING VERY GOOD-FIX / ROPE
70m or 2x50m
 The
Mount San Martino throw down to the east side of the Lake of Lecco with
a huge and complex limestone wall, at its bottom in the early '80 born
the crags of the Bastionata del Lago, cradle of the sport climbing in
Lecco,
and then the crags of Pradello, previously explored by Ivan Guerini.
Anyway
in this area some remarkable alpine routes was climbed already in the
early
'70, among these the famous Via Panzeri-Riva on the Red Pillar (Sergio
Panzeri, Giancarlo Riva and Franco Passerini, 1975) and the Via degli
Amici
on the big wall right of the Bastionata (Daniele Chiappa, Sergio
Panzeri,
Giacomo Stefani, Roberto Chiappa 1974). Last, in the 1987 C.
Invernizzi,
F. Colombo, C. Gorla and Virgilio Plumari climbed “Sul lago dorato” and
“Soli di ghiaccio”, two long routes about 200m right of the Via degli
Amici,
that anyway didn't have great fortune. The range of vertical and
compact
slabs just right of the Bastionata still remained unexplored, till the
2002 when it was Paolo Vitali, Sonja Brambati and Pietro Corti turn.
They
climbed from bottom with a power drill two new routes technically hard:
Vitali leading, Brambati in the middle for ropes manoeuvres and last
Corti
cleaning the routes. And it's not finished yet! The same climbers are
already
working at a new route on the left. The climbing style is technical but
also stamina is needed, on the wonderful grey-white limestone full of
holes
and reglettes that dries quickly, typical of the Bastionata. To repeat
them you only need the quickdraws, the descent are rapelling on the
routes.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to climb there, sun after the
11am.
Be careful in the spring when the yellow Caledonia flowers, it can
produce
tiresome scalds.
 ACCESS: coming
from Lecco follow the road on the lake direction Colico-Sondrio, before
the junction with the road SS36 take the exit right that pass under the
railway bridge, the road ends soon at Pradello. Park just after the
bridge
on the left, go back to the turn and follow the path that starts with
some
steps and then goes right. At the first cross follow the path on the
left,
go over a short fixed rope, in the following wood you will find a new
cross,
going left you will reach the Red Pillar, while continuing right on the
main path you will find the sectors of the Bastionata del Lago:
ERTOMANIA
first and ON THE ROAD last; continue on the right a few minutes and you
will notice the cleaned wood on the left where the routes start. The
starting
point is just left of the route Via degli amici. 15 minutes from the
car. |
