Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati
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Bastionata del Lago - Paretone italian version
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La Bastionata del LagoThe Mount San Martino throw down to the east side of the Lake of Lecco with a huge and complex limestone wall, at its bottom in the early '80 born the crags of the Bastionata del Lago, cradle of the sport climbing in Lecco, and then the crags of Pradello, previously explored by Ivan Guerini. Anyway in this area some remarkable alpine routes was climbed already in the early '70, among these the famous Via Panzeri-Riva on the Red Pillar (Sergio Panzeri, Giancarlo Riva and Franco Passerini, 1975) and the Via degli Amici on the big wall right of the Bastionata (Daniele Chiappa, Sergio Panzeri, Giacomo Stefani, Roberto Chiappa 1974). Last, in the 1987 C. Invernizzi, F. Colombo, C. Gorla and Virgilio Plumari climbed “Sul lago dorato” and “Soli di ghiaccio”, two long routes about 200m right of the Via degli Amici, that anyway didn't have great fortune. The range of vertical and compact slabs just right of the Bastionata still remained unexplored, till the 2002 when it was Paolo Vitali, Sonja Brambati and Pietro Corti turn. They climbed from bottom with a power drill two new routes technically hard: Vitali leading, Brambati in the middle for ropes manoeuvres and last Corti cleaning the routes. And it's not finished yet! The same climbers are already working at a new route on the left. The climbing style is technical but also stamina is needed, on the wonderful grey-white limestone full of holes and reglettes that dries quickly, typical of the Bastionata. To repeat them you only need the quickdraws, the descent are rapelling on the routes. Spring and autumn are the best seasons to climb there, sun after the 11am. Be careful in the spring when the yellow Caledonia flowers, it can produce tiresome scalds.
Cerchiato il settore di PanoramixACCESS: coming from Lecco follow the road on the lake direction Colico-Sondrio, before the junction with the road SS36 take the exit right that pass under the railway bridge, the road ends soon at Pradello. Park just after the bridge on the left, go back to the turn and follow the path that starts with some steps and then goes right. At the first cross follow the path on the left, go over a short fixed rope, in the following wood you will find a new cross, going left you will reach the Red Pillar, while continuing right on the main path you will find the sectors of the Bastionata del Lago: ERTOMANIA first and ON THE ROAD last; continue on the right a few minutes and you will notice the cleaned wood on the left where the routes start. The starting point is just left of the route Via degli amici. 15 minutes from the car.
Following topos and pitches detailed description 

Testi, disegni e immagini: Copyright    Paolo Vitali –